Franck Quinton is a happy man

This former hunting lodge on the edges of the Andaine forest was bought on impulse 25 years ago by his father, a pork butcher, who set up his business here and naturally roped in his son. Since his childhood, Franck Quinton has bathed in the food trade but his objective was the luxury end of the market. Graduate from the Hotelier School in Douvres la Délivrande he worked as sous-chef in the Lutécia in Paris before deciding, 15 years ago, to return to the family manor to take up the position of chef. When all you have to do is walk out through your front door to find yourself in the middle of the forest, it is quite natural to become passionate about the hidden smells and tastes that can be discovered there. « I discovered mushrooms thanks to friends who are mycologists » explains Franck Quinton... implying of course mushrooms other than cépes (boletus), trompettes (trumpets), and girolles (chanterelles). His preference is for the Golmotte, a fool’s mushroom with a taste of fresh nut, or the clitocybe Odora with its aniseed fragrance, delicious when infused in milk. In all, there are thirty or so different species which he incorporates into garnishes, tarts and desserts! « But the mushroom is not just any old product » points out Franck Quinton, it has to be tamed. Some years they may even fail to appear. You have to learn to be patient and turn your hand to other things. « I am interested in all traditional regional produce » with an art that only the great chefs can master - « simplicity ».